Apples of Sodom

Just back from the Galapagos. I found it wasn’t quite what I was expecting. The islands are huge and very far apart, far a start. And they are flat, and also have mountains (volcano stumps) in the centre, and they are black in colour, and shrubby with cactus and even banana plants. They have . . . → Read More: Apples of Sodom

Accidents Happen

Greetings, I am writing this post from my bed in Trinidad, where I lie with my left leg in a surgical stocking, hoisted up on a pile of pillows. I have had a serious accident on my travels, dear reader, first a broken toe (thrown from wind surfer in rough sea) in el Yacque, Margarita — and now the Bunk Bed Injury. . . . → Read More: Accidents Happen

Turtles and Hoarders

Happy New Year. I’m now back in Trinidad. For all sorts of reasons, I decided to head back to sit down to some writing. I will be here for 5 weeks before I begin Part Two of my research trip. Part One was a blast. I travelled for five weeks through the islands of the Eastern Caribbean visiting Margarita, Los Roques, Bonaire, Curaçao and Aruba . . . → Read More: Turtles and Hoarders

Lizards on the Rocks

I’m in Aruba. People in Boniare and Curaçao said I would not like this place — too many casinos, too much Americana . . . → Read More: Lizards on the Rocks

Curaçao Baroque

There are many things that Bonaire and Curaçao have in common: terraces of coral stone, candle cactus, iguanas, wild goats, casinos, huge cruise ships, like floating cities, legal prostitution — and rain! . . . → Read More: Curaçao Baroque

Ladies’ Night at Happy Camp

Last night I visited Camp Allegre, or Happy Camp here in Curaçao. It’s probably the biggest and most civilised brothel in the whole of the Caribbean region. Brothel is maybe not the right word. It’s a cross between a hotel resort and a compound.

It has ‘streets’, called things like Booty Walk and Happy . . . → Read More: Ladies’ Night at Happy Camp

Sangria in Rincon

Spent the weekend exploring Bonaire by land. First the south of the island, today the north. A woman called Petrie Hausmann has been my guide and driver, who arrived here in the 60s to dive. As she said, Boanire is an islands of contrasts. The south is arid, they make salt there naturally, pumping it off the sea with windmills, collecting it in great mountains to be taken either to the US (used to soften water) or to Trinidad — for domestic use. These days . . . → Read More: Sangria in Rincon

Blue Tangs and honeycomb cowfish

The whole island of Bonaire is a conservation park. You have to pay $10 US to put your toe in the water. Nothing like it anywhere in the world, a whole country that is a marine park . . . → Read More: Blue Tangs and honeycomb cowfish

Blue Open Water, 300 miles, 72 hours and still here

I arrived safely in Bonaire yesterday, about 2pm, right into the harbour at Kralendijk,( pronounced Kra-len-deck.). Afraid to say I was in a sorry state, dear reader, and it has taken a full 24 hours to regain my sense . . . → Read More: Blue Open Water, 300 miles, 72 hours and still here

Poori Poori

An archipelago is a cluster of islands formed tectonically, or volcanically. Arkhi in Greek means chief and pelagos means sea.....there are some countries on earth which are archipelagos; Japan, The Philippines, New Zealand . . . → Read More: Poori Poori